Cowboy Life
On the Trail of the Working Cowboy in Northeast New Mexico
There is no better place to learn the values of discipline, patience and hard work than from the back of a horse or in a branding pen, from pitching hay or facing down ones fears in a rodeo arena.
— Max Evans, Making A Hand: Growing up Cowboy in New Mexico
The cowboy lifestyle has been glorified in the movies for decades – Tom Mix, Roy Rogers, Gene Autry, Wallace Beery, Jimmy Stewart… bygone times. Not in Northeastern New Mexico! Here working cowboys continue the legacy of working the land and protecting it for future generations.
In our age of concern for sustaining the land and finding renewable energy resources, much can be learned from the ranchers of Northeast New Mexico. The modern day cowboy was raised with a tradition for honoring the land and maintaining its balance. Good stewardship has kept these families on the land - and will for years to come.
Travelers can experience the lifestyle of the twenty-first century American cowboy at many locations throughout the seven counties that comprise Northeast New Mexico. From Harding County where residents claim there are more cows than people to the vast ranches of Colfax County, one can sense the spirit that tamed the Wild West.
History
The Homestead Act of 1862 and the Spanish Land Grants throughout New Mexico offered pioneers the opportunity to begin a new life in the wild west. With the building of the railroads across America in the 1880s, the great cattle boom was on, bringing about the development of cow towns throughout the west, including Northeast New Mexico. At this time, cattle trails began between Texas and Oklahoma driving the cattle to the northern slaughter houses in Colorado, Kansas and Illinois. Bypassing the still turbulent land of the recently ended Civil War, these trails would circumvent the war-torn area directly north of Texas and Oklahoma and take a westerly start into New Mexico and then north to their destinations. These ran straight through Northeast New Mexico, establishing the cattle business throughout this area.
Nothing was easy in the pioneer days. The lands were originally Indian lands, and the Plains and Pueblo Indians still defended their lands. The comancheros became part of the mix, They were primarily New Mexico hispanic traders who made their living by trading with the nomadic plains tribes. They traded manufactured goods (tools and cloth), flour, tobacco and other essential staple goods for meat, furs, and other bounties the land had to offer. They also helped work cattle on a seasonal basis.
Vaqueros (Spanish for cowboys) were the working cowboys of the area. They were gifted with horse wrangling skills. They brought horses up from Mexico, many with Spanish bloodlines. Ranches raised Spanish Corriente cattle as well as Texas longhorn and other standard American cattle. All this created a unique culture which still thrives today.
Working Ranches
Experience what it's like to be a cowboy in Northeast New Mexico at these working ranches. Enjoy everything from a chuckwagon dinner with the kids tossing horseshoes to a week on a working ranch 'punching' cattle:
Caprock Creek Ranch Adventures, San Jon NM, 1-888-GIDDY-UP. Chuck wagon dinners, horseshoe tossing, hay rides. Quay County
Cedar Creek Ranch, Grenville NM 575-278-2793. Working cattle and thoroughbred horse ranch. Guest ranch house for visitors; summer antelope hunts. Union County, cedarcreekranchnm.com
Cimarroncita Historic Ranch Retreat, Cimarron NM, 1-866-376-2482. Art and literary workshops; cowboy/cowgirl weekends; Indian dances; campfire evenings. Colfax County, cimarroncita.com
JX Guest Ranch, Tucumcari NM, 575-487-2419. Experience daily life on a cattle ranch - cattle drives, family-style dinners, you can even make your own chaps. Quay County, jxranch.com
Rocking J Ranch, Santa Rosa NM, 575-472-5127. Cattle drives, branding, hunting. Guadalupe County
Victory Ranch Alpacas, Mora, NM, 575-387-2254. Hands-on experience at the largest alpaca ranch in the Southwest. Yarns, clothing, gift shop. Mora County, victoryranch.com
Historic Hotels & Saloons
There are a number of Wild West hotels still in operation where you can stay, have a meal, and belly up to the bar.
The Brown Hotel, Springer. The hotel is restored and refurbished with collections from their antique shop. Built in the 1920s, this site is listed on the State Register of Cultural Properties. 17 rooms.
302 Maxwell Avenue, Springer
575-483-2269
Colfax County
Laguna Vista Lodge, Eagle Nest. The spirit and heritage of the West is alive at this 1900s hotel, restaurant and saloon. Each afternoon in the courtyard, a speaker in period dress talks about the area history and gives tours of the original hotel (which became a house of ill repute!). A holdup is staged in the restaurant dining room daily at 6pm. True West Magazine named the saloon "The Best in New Mexico" and one of the best in the fifteen western states, for four consecutive years. The original hotel building is home to many ghosts - all original hotel guest rooms are already "occupied!" 25 rooms.
51 E. Therma, Eagle Nest
800-821-2093, 575-377-6522
Colfax County
lagunavistalodge.com
Plaza Hotel, Las Vegas. "The Belle of the Southwest" built in grand Victorian style in 1882 is now authentically restored with modern amenities. Byron T's Saloon is an original cowboy saloon serving drinks and appetizers. Doc Holliday shot a fellow who cheated at cards in this very saloon. Oktoberfest German-style dinners served every Friday, Saturday and Sunday in October. Join us for a traditional holiday dinner this Thanksgiving! 37 rooms.
230 Plaza, Las Vegas
800-328-1882, 505-425-3591
San Miguel County
plazahotel-nm.com
St. James Hotel, Cimarron. Situated on the old Santa Fe Trail, the historic St. James Hotel in Cimarron, New Mexico has been a gathering place for over a hundred years. Opened in 1872, as a saloon and restaurant, it was expanded by owner Henri Lambert into a hotel known for its fine dining and comfortably furnished hotel rooms. Wild and unruly Cimarron left its mark on the hotel. Bullet holes in the ceiling of the present day bar attest to the drinking, gambling and fighting which occurred there. Today you can relax in the casual atmosphere of a restored western restaurant and bar. Relax in a hotel room where a variety of notable frontier legends have stayed. But beware - some guests never left and still appear when least expected in unusual forms and places.
617 So. Collision Ave., Cimarron
866-472-5019, 575-376-2664
Colfax County
Stores & Galleries
Arts & Stones, 247 Plaza, Las Vegas 505-425-7811. Southwest jewelry.
Bishops Handmade Boots, Tucumcari - Custom made-to-measure cowboy boots. homestead.com
Cimarron West, Cimarron 575-376-2423. Western wear, tack, ranch supplies, custom saddlery
Gary Morton - artist & rancher. Years of experience wrangling at Bell Ranch. studio-w.com/morton/index.htm
Los Artesanos de Las Vegas - 212 Old Town Plaza, Las Vegas, 505-454-9904, open 11am-6pm daily. New co-op gallery featuring all local artists.
Jim Keith, Tucumcari - blacksmith. Creates everything from wagon wheels to decorative art work.
JX Ranch, 6237 Hwy 209, Tucumcari 88401 575-487-2419. Make your own leather chaps, supervised by ranch owner. Great quality. jxranch.com
Old Pass Gallery - 145 South First St, Raton. Operated in a restored Wells Fargo Express building situated along the Santa Fe Railroad, the gallery offers original, sometimes surprising views of the people, places, and objects that represent the great Southwest. ratonarts.org
Santa Fe Trail Traders - 100 S. 2nd St, Raton 575-445-2888. Native American and Southwestern collectibles. santafetrailtraders.com
Solano's Boot & Western Wear, 101 South Second St., Raton. 1-888-898-6813 solanoswesternwear.com Western hats, tall top hand-crafted boots, leather jackets & vests, western belts & more.
Taylor Canyon Gallery, Santa Rosa - 575-472-3706. Western art; custom saddles.
Tex's Saddle Shop, Santa Rosa - 575-472-3706. Makes custom saddles, been around forever, works with all local ranchers.
Tim Cox - one of America's best know western artists. Mail order only. timcox.com
Tito's Gallery, 157 Bridge Street (old town), Las Vegas 505-425-3745. Local hispanic art - tinwork, jewelry
Town & Country Clothes, Santa Rosa - great western wear, gear, boots, etc.
Wagon Mound Ranch Supply, 15 Fourth Rd., Solano. 1-800-526-0482; 575-673-2489. Farrier supplies, cowboy wear, western music & books. Dutch oven cookoff. wagonmound.com
War Dancer Gallery, 150 Bridge Street (old town), Las Vegas 505-425-3877. Western art, Pendleton blankets, Nambe silver, Southwest jewelry. wardancerdesigns.com
Restaurants
The Annex at Ute Lake in Logan (on Rt 54 out of Tucumcari) - Great ribeye steaks, Mexican food, burgers, chicken fried steak. 575-487-4745.
The Pow Wow in Tucumcari - indian/western theme - delicious steaks, full bar. 801 W. Tucumcari Blvd., 575-461-2587
Western BBQ Restaurant at Santa Rosa Campgrounds - baby back ribs, smoked and barbequed to your taste, famous hot fudge sundaes and peach cobbler. Hours 5 to 8 pm daily. Historic Route 66, 575-472-3126.
Joseph's Bar & Grill - 865 Will Rogers Dr, Santa Rosa, 575-472-3361. A tradition since the '60's, on Rte 66, great Mexican food, charbroiled steaks; full bar & night club.
St. James Hotel, Cimarron - grilled smoked pork chops, bison pot roast, and a 16 oz. prime rib eye steak, chocolate pecan pie, old fashioned bread pudding.
Lambert's Saloon, located in the St. James Hotel in Cimarron is an authentic old west bar serving fine wines, beer & cocktails.
Ice House, 945 S. 2nd, Raton
Pappas Sweet Shop, 1201 S. 2nd, Raton
El Matador, 1012 S. 2nd, Raton
La Cocina, 745 S. 3rd, Raton for Mexican food
Gatherings
Rodeos
Clayton - Fourth of July Rabbit Ear Round-up - Rodeos, parade, dance, barbecue, and other events (July)
Cimarron - Maverick Club Parade & Rodeo, cimarronnm.com The Longest Running Open Rodeo in the West featuring Roping, Barrel Racing, Bull Riding, Wild Cow Milking (July)
Las Vegas - San Miguel County Rodeo - County fair & rodeo (July) 505-454-1497
Las Vegas - Hermit's Peak Ranch Rodeo - Working cowboy events - have to be working cowboy from a working ranch to compete. Roping, Wild Cow Milking, etc. At Santa Fe Rail Events Center, 505-425-6929 (July)
Raton - Raton Rodeo - York Canyon Rd. 575-707-0430. (June)
Santa Rosa - Guadalupe County Fair, Santa Rosa Fairgrounds - 1st weekend in August.
Springer - Colfax County Fair & Rodeo, Springer Fairgrounds. 575-445-8071 (August).
Tucumcari - Kiwanis High Plains Junior Rodeo - rodeo & livestock show, Quay County Fair (June)
Tucumcari - Quay County 4H Rodeo and Horse Show, Quay County Fairgrounds (July)
Wagon Mound - Bean Day, rodeo, fair, parade, free BBQ (September)
Shindigs
NRA Santa Fe Trail Rendezvous, re-enactment of the Mountain Man era, pre-1840, on the Santa Fe Trail at the NRA Whittington Center. Exit 450, 5.5 miles west of Sonic Drive-In on NM 555 on the south side of Raton (June).
Nara Visa Poetry & Song Gathering - camp out at old school grounds in Nara Visa. Gather 'round the campfires and listen to great cowboy poems and songs under the moonlight (every September). 575-633-2773.
Western Swing at the Solano Starlight Ballroom, (Harding County). Last Saturday of the month in June, July, & August. Excellent swing bands, $10 at the gate. 575-673-2489, located at the Wagon Mound Ranch Supply.
Solanofest - Dutch Oven Cook-off, live music, crafts booths. 575-673-2489. Bring your own chair! Located at Wagon Mound Ranch Supply in Solano (third Saturday in September).
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